Thursday, 28 February 2008

Mayday 3 pommes on an Island!!!!

Hurrah we have landed in the worlds largest playground! It is amazing here and so much to do.

The past week has been spent hot footing it around the country in our hire car which is a Nissan estate (known as a waggon out here). We flew into Christchurch, discovered that our bags were in Singapore! This was annoying but at least it was a sunny day as Emily was only wearing shorts and t-shirt! The first day was spent walking around the city shopping around for the best rates in car hire. At first it seemed like we were going to pay loads for a tiny box but it was fine in the end. We found a hostel after some time as they were all full due to the cricket being on that weekend then headed to bed.

Next day was cold and overcast and our bags still hadn't arrived, we looked like a couple of misfits wandering town, Dawn had here cropped combats on with a red sarong draped over her shoulders to keep her warm, Emily had her coat on that was longer than her shorts and flip flops and so looked like a flasher! We eventually got our bags at 5 pm!-Not before picking up the car, driving to the airport to collect bags to then discover they were in a delivery van heading our way somewhere else in the city!

That evening we headed to Methven, we were hoping to take a hot air balloon ride over the Southern Alps. The weather was unsuitable and so we headed off to Mt. Cook via Lake Tekapo. The lake was stunning, it had a dazzling turquoise colour to it, it was a windy day and so large surf was blowing across the 50 km long lake. The backdrop was the Southern Alps with snow on the highest peaks. The scenery is so dramatic as its so natural and rugged. The whole country is like this. There is so much space and the roads are so long and empty between towns, we end up driving for hours before meeting another car. Passing through towns in the evening is odd as many of them are all closed by 6 pm even the local fish and chip shops! We're so used to everything being open till 10pm at home that we really need to think ahead now.

After the lake we arrived at Mt Cook. The weather had really kicked in by now, the wind was blowing, the clouds and rain had arrived and we really couldn't see much at all! As we went for an hours walk to a glacier and a view point of Mt Cook, we took in the beautiful scenery and joked that in fact we could be in Wales or Devon as it looked the same and the climate was perfect! The photos of us in our wet weather gear will prove this! At the look out point we were unable to see Mt. Cook due to the clouds but it was still stunning looking across the vast mountain range and valley below.

Next we headed to Lake Wanaka for the evening's campsite. We got there pretty late and all the campsites were closed. It was perfect as we parked in a car park right on the banks of the lake so that we would wake up with panoramic views of the mountains and lake. It was a restless nights sleep though as we were rudely awakened by the sound of our car going through a car wash! In fact there were a line of water sprinklers beside our car that went off for a couple of hours in the middle of the night! It was so loud but at least the car got a good wash!

The following day we drove to Milford Sound. It was an amazing drive along mountain rounds with raging rivers and waterfalls each side of us. The closer to the coast we got the worst the weather got. It was now sheeting rain, as we stopped for quick photos. We even had to drive though a tunnel, through a mountain, which was 2km long and felt like you were driving along the underground in London!! The rain made for beautiful cascading waterfalls everywhere, even if we were a bit scared driving down the steep winding mountain roads in the wet! It made for good coasting though, as there are no petrol stations in Milford Sound and were were running a bit low!

After warming up in the campsite lounge, which was lovely blast of civilisation, we spent a wet and windy night in the car, trying to sleep, as the rain and wind pummeled the windows.

The next day we went Kayaking in a Fjord at Milford Sound, again it was very very wet and windy, but there were amazing waterfalls cascading down the mountains. The waves were a bit scary and I thought a few times we would tip over, but we were only soaked by the rain!! Been in Kayaks rather than a boat meant we could get very close to the seals and we even glimpsed a dolphin!! After 4 hours in a Kayak we were very achy and needed a shower to warm up.

Yesterday we flew up to north island to support Emily's friend swim the Cook Straight. However, an hour after we left Wellington harbour we crashed into rocks and the boat got grounded!! It was very very scary, as the boat listed heavily. Life jackets on we were evacuated to the nearby island Mana, where were we got soaked scrambling up the rocky beach. We were marooned on this narrow rocky beach for 5 hours awaiting rescue by the coastguard. Eventually the Marine Conservation Officers of the island collected us from the beach and took us to their base on the island. We warmed up in the sun with cups of tea, while watching some amazing birds - Takaha, which are very rare parrot like chickens that are green and blue.

We are currently in Dunedin staying with Emily's friend and it is so nice having a roast dinner and a good nights sleep in a nice soft bed!! Heaven!!

Monday, 18 February 2008

Professional Beach Bums!!!!

Well here we are again, set to leave another country! We have had a fab time here in Thailand and it has gone so quickly. We have only today left and are flying out tomorrow afternoon to New Zealand.



So what have we been doing?



We spent the first 4 days in Bangkok where Emily had a couple of days down time seeing a few local sights whilst Dawn headed out to see the Grand Palace, Wot Pho where there is a 46m long Buddha and a few other thing along the way - a giant swing and 30m tall gold Buddha to name a few. It was a day of amazing architecture, gold and jewels everywhere. The next Day Dawn went on a sightseeing trip to the Cemetery where the prisoners of war who died building the Burma railway (bridge over the river Kwai) were remembered, it was amazing how many of the young men were from Herts and Beds. Dawn then travelled on the railway through Death Valley where most people lost their lives. With such amazing scenary it is hard to imagine the pain and suffering that took place here. The day was then finished relaxing by a beautiful waterfall.



A must see visit to Pat Pong was an experience, in fact scary more than embarassing. We were sent to a club to see the various ping pong and Miss razorblade girls. We were told that we had to buy a drink only and the show was free. First we walked into a seedy looking dark bar, hardly anyone there except for naked girls standing around looking very disinterested (in fact one of them was nonchanlantley scratching her bum!) We ordered our drinks, the show was very slow maybe one thing every 10 mins in between we were hounded by the girls to buy them drinks or to tip, then the big scary bouncer ladies came over demanding that we each pay 800 bhat for the viewing! At this point we felt a bit scared as we were trapped in this darkened club! We drank quickly and watched an original game of hoopla and blowing out birthday candles (wouldn't be accepted at local village fetes)! Then ran out of there. We did try a second club but it was the same runner exit as the first! We then headed back to Khao San Road in which we are staying at feeling sad that the girls have to do that for their living.



Khao San road is a really funky buzzing place in which we likened it to Camden Market. Its a backpackers hub and sells various fake Id's, clothes, tatoos, piercings and the road is lined with neon lights. Usually we would hate this but it has a friendly charm to it.



We both visited the floating markets which are just outside of Bangkok, its complete hustle and bustle and hard to by things on the water as the boats keep moving apart or you simply just float by before you can show an interest in something!

We then took a night bus and ferry to Ko Phangan. What a beautiful island! We stayed in the north of the island at Mae Haad View. It was suggested we went there by a guy called Russell we met on the bus. There was only one beach hut and so Russell very kindly let us share his for the week, we had the room and he slept on the balcony in a hammock!!! We had a great time, half of the week was spent relaxing on the quiet beach and the other half was broken into sight seeing and hospital appointments for Emily!

The hospital visits occured due to scooters being the only way to get around the island. Both Emily and Russell were adventure junkies and so headed off on a day of searching for waterfalls and snorkelling sights. Dawn had gone across to Ko Samui for the day. The day started well, the snorkelling at the local beach was nice then Emily and Russell headed off on the bikes into the jungle! There are few concrete roads on the island and so they ended up having to drive the bikes up and down some serious dirt tracks. Emily's bike was rubbish, it couldn't make it up half the hills and so she had to walk it up the hill whilst using the throttle!!!! The hills were sand, gravel and full of gullies, at times they had to splash their way through rivers. It was basically dirt biking on automatic scooters!!!! It was damn scary but also exhillerating until coming down one hill that was covered in loose gravel, fortunately Emily was almost stationary as she was slowly walking the bike down whilst sitting on it but the back wheel slid on the gravel the bike toppled over onto her skidding her against the gravel. This resulted in her sadly having to rip her sarong for a bandage as her arm was gouged pretty badly. In the evening a trip to the hospital resulted in 6 stitches but all is ok now!!! It was a fun day with no regrets as it was an adventure!!!!



Dawn found Ko Samui quieter than she had expected, but the first beach was nothing like the Lonely Planet described it (a romantic fishing village with quiet beach), it was a quiet fishing village with no beach and little facilities, just one expensive restaurant. Due to the Chinese new year it wasn't quiet either, with fire crckers going off every second!! After an expensive breakfast, Dawn headed to the second most popular beach (which the book described as busy), but Dawn found it touristy, but not too in your face. After shopping and chilling on the beach, she headed back to the port and spent time on the beach there (the nicest one in her opinion, athough the book says it is dirty and smelly!) and got the posh Catermaran back to Ko Phangan.



We got into the party spirit and went to a black moon party. It was really good fun and set on the beach. The atmosphere was brilliant with people skipping a burning rope and juggling fire. There were very psychodelic paintings dotted around that glowed in the UV light and the music was trance but it was well Dj'd and kept us dancing till about 6am! Funnily enough we chilled out on the beach the next day. It was nice driving back as day broke as we got to see all the local tradesmen preparing their stuff for the day, many were cutting meat and laying it out.



Another day was spent walking in the Jungle to the highest point on the island. Dawn was challenged by creepy crawleys and having to wade across a river and climbing some boulders. She did well though but chose to not go into the dark depths of the jungle so waited for the wanderers to return by a serene man made lake.



Emily did have a second attempt at the off roading but she took a quad which was slightly better as it could actually get up hills and hold the road. It was great as waterfalls were successfully found and lovely tucked away beaches. Dawn took to the sea this day and had a go at snorkelling with her lilo and loved it!!!! (since this she has become quite the water baby!!!)

We left Ko Phangan by taking a night boat to mainland. This was fun as the upper deck (the only deck we could use) was lined with mattresses in a true dormitory style. Everyone had a mattress to sleep on for the 6 hour journey. It was nice except for them being rather narrow and therefore every now and then waking up to find yourself face to face with a complete stranger. When we reached mainland we jumped into a mini van that was going to take us to Krabi. However it took us 100m and dropped us by the side of the road where we had to wait for 2 hours for another bus to take us to our destination (did i mention that it was 5 am!).

From Krabi we took a long boat to Reiley Beach. At first we weren't over impressed as we were greeted by a muddy beach, having to clamber out of the boat, wade to shore with all our bags oh and Emily managed to slip over and fall face down in the sea soaking all her stuff! We then manged to get a room in the cheapest place, a nice hotel type village thing, however this was still extortionate compared to what we have been used to! Reiley has been developed away from backpackers. It is now a cluster of swankey resorts and families, we did feel a bit out of place until we discovered the paupers end of the beach (the smelly end!) It smells due to the sulphur given off from the Mangroves but cor it is a hold your nose experience. There we found cheap internet, restaurants and bars, the place became a tad more appealing.

We did make the most of our few days there, we walked over to Reiley West beach but it was too crowded and so discovered another small, crowded but more picturesque beach at the end of the peninsula. Here there is also Princess Cave which local fishermen believe that hundreds of years ago an Indian Princess was shipwrecked and died in the cave. Now local fisherman bring very large colurful carved wooden phalluses here as an offering to recieve good luck! Quite an unusual sight! We paid a visit to another cave-Diamond Cave, this was impressive as it went right back into the rock, very deep with a board walk all the way through it but the cave is also home to a huge sheet of quartz which was a beautiful contrast to the bare limestone walls.

Dawn took a day trip to see Bond Island (the man with the golden finger was filmed here), she also visited a cave with another Buddha inside and a floating village. Emily that day decided to explore a hidden lagoon which was inside the headland. The lonely planet said that it is a tough trek inducing vertigo attacks-Emily feels it was mildly described as in fact it included trekking through the jungle alone, having to climb down sheer rocks using knotted ropes to assist with the ascent and descent but obviously no harness and her blue beach dress kept catching on the rocks!!! She felt like a rock climbing Barbie!!!!! (much to the amusement of climbers she met at the end!) The lagoon was a muddy puddle which incidently Emily fell straight into!!!! Yuk! It was another adventure though and forced her to face her fear of heights!

Valentines day was spent on a speed boat exploring Ko Phi phi Ley and Don. Ley is where The Beach was filmed. Apart from the crowds it was truly beautiful and Dawn had ago at rock climbing here in a bikini, sarong and bare feet (She was going for the Lara Croft look rather than Barbie!) Phi Phi Don was sobering as 6000 lives were lost here during the Tsunami. It is so hard to imagine what it must have been like at that time. It is now being redeveloped into an expensive resort area again pushing out the backpackers. Everywhere you go in this area (the Andaman Coast) there are Tsunami evacuation signs and collecting areas. It was a great day out with some amazing snorkelling and Dawn braved the open sea without her lilo or lifejacket!!!! She even dived down to get a better look at the Clown fish (Nemo)!

We then went up the coast to Khao Lak in which we joined a three day dive trip living aboard a boat on the Similian Islands. It was an intense 3 days for Emily as she did 9 dives, ate a lot of rice and saw absolutley amazing fish, rays, seahorse but no bruce the shark! There were so many it was like being in an aquarium. Dawn again braved the snorkelling and was treated several times to close viewings of Turtles-1 being the Green Turtle!

From here we went back to Bangkok for last minute shopping, throwing out of really manky clothes and getting lost in China Town.

Goodbye Thailand!

Random fact of the day:
Birds nest soup is thought to act in the same way as viagra and unfortunately Swallows nests are raided and sold at a whopping 100,000 Bhat for 1 Kilo of the nest! That is eqiuvalent to nearly 2000 British Pounds!

Friday, 1 February 2008

Singapore Slingers!!!

Hurrah we were so excited at getting on a plane at last that Emily celebrated with a Singapore Sling in the air but Dawn waited to have hers at Raffels!

We were very fortunate to arrive and to have the hotel already booked and paid for by Emily's friend. Still can't believe how kind she was as a comfy bed, hot shower and a goodnights sleep was like heaven!

We spent the next day wandering around Singapore, visiting a Merlion at Marina Park, an unimpressive fountain followed by a more impressive one that could make us rich as we had to run around the Fountain of wealth 3 times with our right arm in the water saying a wish. The afternoon was spent kicking back whilst enjoying high tea at a delicious smelling bakery in Raffels hotel. We then dragged ourselves up the stairs to Long Bar in which we sat drinking our Singapore slings, eating copius amounts of Peanuts, tossing the empty shells over our shoulders onto the floor. It was great and very funny hearing everyones shells crunching under your feet as you walk around the bar. From here we headed to the night Safari. It is Singapores zoo but at night and well worth a visit. We saw almost every animal that there is and they were unaware of our presence due to very clever lighting. The animals live in a specially designed natural habitat and they all seem very happy. It was interesting to see the nocturnal creatures behaviour. From here it was back to the airport to fly onto Thailand!

Another night on an airport floor but this floor was the equivalent to the Hilton!

Random fact of the day: Singapore has a fantastic ticket system on the mrt. It gives you a plastic ticket that you put back in the machine after your journey. You recieve your $1 deposit back. Very environmentally friendly!