Sunday 23 December 2007

Nutters turn Yak Cow Girls!!!


Hi Everyone!

Firstly Happy Christmas! We both hope that you celebrate the festivities with way too much food and drink as normal, then sit back and say "oh I'm so not going to eat as much next year", by next year you have by then forgotten that promise!


So we left you last as we were heading to Jodphur, Indias Blue city. Yes it is very blue, it also has a lovely HUGE fort that we went around using an audio tour which made it pretty interesting-tell you more when home.


From Jodphur we went onto Bikaner, a desert town in which we stayed in very cold mud hut type thing. On the way we stopped at the strangest temple of all! It was a temple that worships RATS! Yes we did say rats and yes it was full of them! We had to leave our shoes at the entrance and then hop around trying to miss the rats as they ran at our feet! Emily turned out to be a girly girl squealing, Dawn stayed in the rat courtyard and let Emily get the closer photo's in the surrounding buildings. It was weird, pigeons also swarmed the place as there was a constant flow of food, grain and milk-wait to see the photos. Didn't do much in the town, headed into town for a meal, wasn't overly impressed by dinner or town.


Then Hurrah, we went back to Delhi and left our driver! We stayed in a families house in Delhi for the evening and had lots of lovely home cooked food and a comfy bed with soft pillows!


Next day we left for Manali (Emily's Paradise). We took a cute sleeper bus which had a really snug little curtained off area for us to sleep in, 16 hours later we arrived. Dawn was amazed by the sheer beauty of the snow capped mountains. The stony rivers cutting through the valley, running along the roadside, Alpine trees clinging to the hills and sun shining through. Just to make you all jealous, this is our view from our balcony! We sit here in the sun between 10-3pm as sun is so strong in our vest tops. When it cools down we go for various local walks.


Within two minutes of us stepping off of the bus, Emily bumped into a man she met here 9 years ago! We are now staying at his hotel-for those of you who were in India with me last, it is the man who tricked us off of the bus into staying at the Hotel Kalpna.


After settling in we went for a walk up through forest and found an absolute tourist hub, in this hub were a couple of Yaks!!!! We couldn't resist riding on the hairy big horned beasts! So off we went, Dawn has been wondering that if she brought one back, would it be allowed on Public Bridleways in Herts?!


Yesterday we went for a lovely walk, 5 hours in the mountains and climbing up very steep sides by a huge waterfall. It was fun slipping and sliding in the snow! Emily decided it was easier to get down the mountain side by sliding down on her bum where as Dawn maintained a slow clamber but her bum remained dry and warm, unlike Emily's! To warm up we visited local natural sulphur baths, used for sacred bathing, they were boiling-too hot to actually get into! The locals found us very amusing! There's one for ladies and one for men which is good because anything goes when it comes down to what to wear.


Today was amazing, our hotelier managed to find Ramesh! He was Emily's Guide in the Himalayas in 1998. We are going to his house tomorrow to meet his son Sanjeep, also a guide and then Budhram the cook is also around. It is so lovely to see him again as he was like my Himalayan Father, we used to just walk and talk each day, he hasn't changed much either and he remembered me and the trek we all did!


Now we are planning Christmas Day and will let you know what we have up our sleeve next time!

Saturday 15 December 2007

British hostages held to ransom continued........


Good evening everyone, sorry to leave you on a cliff hanger but before we delve into the exciting stuff we'll share some mundane things first!

So we left Ranthambore and went to Jaipur, Dawns worst city, I didn't find it too bad just another big dusty noisy city. Our first day there we decided to go for a wander to the local Bazaars. We had to cross the main road-my goodness it was a hold your breath, close your eyes and hope for the best scenario! Anyway we made it and found the bazaars this is when the fun started, we decided that we would buy a Punjabi-the long top over trousers outfit. Well the first stall we got to accosted us, wouldn't let us out the shop and manhandled us whilst attempting to wrap an unwanted Sari around us!! Eventually we made our escape and walked past various stalls offering us cushion covers, we eventually found a Punjabi each after having millions and millions unpacked and laid out in front of us. That was that day.

Next day was a sight seeing day-way hey more temples and forts! However we found the cheaper things to do, these consisted of visiting a ruined palace which was very nice and nobody else was there, then visiting an old palace in the stinkiest lake you will ever come across-Dawn likened it to the bog of eternal stench in the film The Labyrinth. Then our driver Sanjay was trying to convince us to kiss a Camel???? Amber Fort was next stop-pricey but the views were worth it and it is here that the Karma Sutra was invented. The Marharaja was only allowed one wife however he had 11 mistresses which he kept in different rooms. The mistresses then painted various sexual positions on the bedroom wall. He would come along and see which one tempted him, that is how the woman then won his company for the evening by acting the painting out!!! After this we had run out of things to do, our driver thought it would be nice to take us to very expensive furniture and textile shops-it was lovely being shown what we can't afford!!! To end the day was in fact the highlight of Jaipur, we went to the world famous cinema, the queues were huge and there were separate queues for men and women. The film was in Hindi and so we couldn't understand but caught onto the story. We saw fantastic bollywood dancing, the music was brilliant and it was interesting to see how everyone claps and cheers in the cinema. We left very happy.

Pushka was next, lovely quiet hippy strictly vegetarian and alcohol free town based around a lake with many Ghats-sacred bathing areas. We really unwound here and went for a fantastic walk right to the top of the highest mountain where there was a Hindu temple at the top and fantastic panoramic views of the mountain ranges and valleys. We thought it would be peaceful but we reached the top to be welcomed by the thud thud thud of rave music being played at the cafe! I then ended up in a very embarrassing situation where i ended up having to take an incense stick into the temple to then pray to one of the Hindu Gods, i had no idea quite what to do or how i should do it, after doing almost everything wrong i rejoined dawn and we made a sharp exit back down the mountain but to soon be stopped in our tracks by monkeys. These were no ordinary monkeys-they were vicious! The little one beared his teeth at us and ran forward claws out and swiping! This is where we were held to ransom but we had no food! I clapped to scare them off but they became more aggressive, even local people seemed scared and wouldn't come forwards, we realised the only way out was to scrabble down the mountain side off of the path! Eventually we got safely back into the town.

Next stop was Udaipur, another lovely city by a lake, James Bonds Octopussy was set here, we did more sight seeing of museums, palaces, gardens, temples. We had a boat ride over to one of the islands featured in the film, we also watched an evening of local dancers which was very good especially the lady who danced with 10 water pots on her head! Another evening was spent sitting on a lovely roof top overlooking the lake in a restaurant whilst watching Octopussy.

Finally the blog brings you to where we are now-Mt Abu, we love it here, it is so peaceful and relaxing however being in the mountains is somewhat cooler but the views are amazing. The only one surprise is that down in the town is like Blackpool's Pleasure beach as it is made up of neon lights, loud music, arcades and popcorn for sale! We giggle about it.

The Lonely planet suggests that there are lovely treks in the area but you shouldn't go alone due to possible muggings, we were going to go without any money but decided on a guide, it was a lovely trek through woodland, over to a lake with a lovely Hindu temple on it plus a very happy looking crocodile who had just eaten a bird. We then climbed up a mountain to a Hindu temple hidden in the rocks, we prayed here too, after being given lots of sugar to eat. After this we climbed further up the mountain, suddenly the guide spotted a bear! I couldn't see it so he told us to hurry up some rocks, we scrambled up a very steep pile of rocks incredibly quickly-i thought it was to catch a glimpse of the bear so i told Dawn who was behind me and puffing to calm down and take her time! It was only at the top that I realised that both Dawn and the guide knew we were running away from the bear!!! It was after us!!!! From the top of the rock plateau we were able to watch it. It remained in the bushes for some time, it then ambled off, it didn't however take its predicted route as we heard the undergrowth crack and he was after us again!!! I had just a split second to get a photo of him staring straight at us before the guide told us that we must hurry as the bear moves faster than us! Oh my God we were scared- I was shaking as we hurried our way over the top of the mountain, eventually we were a safe distance but i remained sceptical, its amazing how quickly you can feel really small and helpless.

About 10 mins later the guide told us the truth, every week someone is injured by the bears, where we were has the highest rate of fatalities due to bear attacks! Also bears spit venomous saliva that blinds you instantly-i'm wearing my swimming goggles from now on! But thank goodness we had a guide and we weren't 2 mins later as we would have met the bear on the path. To finish the walk we came across fighting monkeys but we had a stick!

We went on another trek today which was far less eventful but very beautiful. We were slightly nervous about going on it! This afternoon has been spent chilling on the roof top, playing cards, doing yoga and drinking Chai. Tomorrow we leave and hit the big smoke of Jodphur!

Friday 14 December 2007

British hostages held to Ransom!

sorry guys had an exciting story to tell but the cafe is closing!!! Will tell you tommorow!-it is worth the wait!!!
xxx

Saturday 8 December 2007

Temples, Safari's, Bartyring and much more!


Well Nameste everyone!

Dawn and i have been going for a week now and have done so much that it feels like we have been here forever!

We had two days in Delhi in which we had a car to take us around and see the sights. We visited the lotus temple which is amazing and belongs to the Bahai religion, which seems to be a very accepting religion, was very interesting to learn about. We managed to find traqulilty in Ghandi's park, i couldn't believe how peaceful and how green it is. The red fort was impressive to look at, we didn't go in as advised that it was a waste of money-we are learning that on a tight budget foreigners suffer as every temple and monument, we pay 10 times the price of an Indian citizen! Oh well its making us enjoy bananas and satsumas for lunch!!!! We also saw, India gate which is a fab monument built in rememberance of the Indian soldiers lost in France during WW1. It looks like Marble Arch.

This is the right time of year to visit Delhi as it is warm enough for a t-shirt but not sweaty!

To leave Dehli we booked a driver for the next 15 days to take us around Rajasthan-I have never been such a posh backpacker!!!! At first it was great but it is becoming more hassle as the driver tries to force us to go to hotels that he will get commission at and hence we pay double the price-it has been making Dawn and I practice our assertive skills! However it has made getting around very easy and the landscape in Rajasthan is so varied, one minute it is moutainous, then flat paddy fields, sandy desert, avenues of trees, little dusty towns dotted around the place. We also see camels towing HUGE trailers, cows doing as they please, brightly decorated lorries, lorries heading straight for us going the wrong way down a dual carriageway! It's great fun though!

We stopped in Agra and saw Agra Fort-amazing, so much variation inside, red sandstone then intricate marble work, beautiful flower beds, amazing views of the Taj Mahal which made it look fairy tale like as it appeared through the mist with the River flowing to it. Dawn visited the Taj Mahal, i had breakfast overlooking it as i went there when i was here last. We then moved on to Keoladeo Ghana National park where we hired bikes and cycled around getting lost on dirt tracks with local land workers finding us hillarious, we found the bikes hillarious-they were complete bone shakers and no gears! Our bums hurt! We saw loads of birds due to it being a breeding ground for migratory birds, deer, foxes and more cows!

After this we arrived in Ranthambhore, here we went on safari, we could only afford the cheapest and only one afternoon so we were praying to see the Tiger's that live in the park, we have been warned that it is very rare. So off we went in our canter with about 15 others into the park, again the scenary was so vast. mountains, then followed jungle then open grassland and watering holes, old hunting lodges were visble and forts. We saw an abundance of Deer, peacocks, other birds, chipmonks but no tiger! We started to head towards leaving the park when suddenly a Tiger casually walked in front of out truck and then proceeded to drink from the watering hole, it was fantastic, i've not seen so many cheshire cat grins for so long, we stayed watching her for 20 mins or so and heard her calling her cubs which remained hidden it was lovely and she was so relaxed.

After this excitement we headed out and stopped again as we could here the spotted deer making warning calls, then we spotted what it was all about ................ a leopard was at the top of a rock looking down at us and them! Another very rare sight, none of us could believe our luck! Clearly the Tigers and Leopards like budget backpackers!!!!! Some people pay for loads of safaris and see nothing, it made our year!

That was yesterday, today we arrived in Jaipur, another busy city-will be pleased to eventually get to the sanctuary of Manali! However Dawn and I haggled down two stalls today in the local bazaar and have bought a punjabi each (the indian long top and trousers), that is our christmas day attire to break us free from our filthy smelly t shirts!!!

Anyway we will keep up dating you and eventually show you some pics!

Hope you are all ok

Em and Dawn xxx

Sunday 2 December 2007

Just before take off!

Hello!
Two hours before we leave for good old Heathrow to catch our flight to Dehli!!!! Immodium is packed as well as many toilet rolls and tissues!!!! Can't wait to get there and drink Chi again!
Not going to to say much now as can't be bothered!
We'll be in touch soon,
Love Dawn and Emily
xxxxxx